Cheese is a curiosity. At its most basic level, cheese is a science experiment gone right. It was likely first discovered by storing milk in animal stomachs, which provided the rennet necessary to separate the solid proteins in milk from the liquid whey. These milk solids then cling to one another, creating curds that can be compressed and the liquid whey removed. Over thousands of years of documented cheesemaking, the process has been refined, and today there are hundreds of different cheeses to choose from.
Cheese production relies on microbial cultures introduced to milk that control flavor profiles by raising the acidity and absorbing lactose, which helps the milk divide into solid and liquid parts. At one time, these strains were perpetuated by using the whey, or liquid portion, of one batch of cheese and adding it to the next. This, of course, leaves room for contamination, but also the development of individual flavor profiles depending on the strain and conditions of any given production.
In fact, some cheese experts are concerned that camembert and brie, two soft cheeses from France, could eventually be at risk. As food scientists worked to create the “perfect” block of cheese, it seems some of the biodiversity has been lost, and the strains that produce the distinctive flavors of camembert and brie are struggling. Originally, the fungus that gives camembert its soft, white rind was present simply in the air of the caves where this cheese was aged. But as consumers became more concerned with a pristine white rind instead of a grey or blue or red hue, cheese was created in a lab, the particular strain duplicated, and instead sprayed on to the outside of the cheese. Unfortunately, as with any organism that is controlled and duplicated on a large scale, these cultures have lost some of their ability to self-replicate and are more susceptible to a disruption or a pathogen that would wipe out the entire strain—and thus the existence of these cheeses.
Thankfully, cheesemakers are working once again to diversify the cultures used in production. Consumers may also need to adjust their expectations, accepting variation instead of uniformity. This, of course, opens the doors once again to subtle differences in taste, color, and texture of these beloved cheeses that gives each its own sort of cheesy personality. This, I think, can only be a good thing.
They say that variety is the spice of life, and in terms of cheese, I think this is probably true. Variety comes in the form of various source materials, cultures, and inclusions within the cheese to create unique flavor profiles, each with its own purpose. Burnett Dairy Cooperative and The Cheese Encounter are two shops where you can browse a wide variety of different cheeses, from the most basic to the most diverse.
Burnett Dairy Cooperative, Duluth
You might recognize Burnett Dairy Cooperative from the dairy aisle at your local grocery store. Burnett Dairy is a farmer-owned cooperative located in the Grantsburg area of Wisconsin. Founded more than 100 years ago, it remains one of the few full-service cooperatives still operating today. You can find many of their cheeses available at your local retailer.
In addition to being in grocery stores throughout the United States, Burnett operates several standalone shops, including the Burnett Dairy Cheese Store and Bistro in Duluth. Inside, you will find a retail space stocked with a wide range of goods, from maple syrup, jams, and jellies to meat sticks, summer sausage, and, of course, cheese. The store carries both Burnett cheeses and other artisanal varieties, offering staples such as cheddar, Swiss, and Muenster alongside many specialty options. If spicy is your thing, you might try the scorpion cheddar or the habanero ghost cheese. Other specialties include cran cheddar cheese and colby salami cheese, which make for great snacking and charcuterie boards.
The Burnett Dairy Bistro is a great place to grab a brick-fired pizza or ice cream. Their ice cream cases are bursting with 30 flavors of Cedar Crest ice cream, each flavor sounding more delicious than the last. The brick-fired oven produces artisan pizzas like What’s the Big Dill, topped with Patria mozzarella, red sauce, dill pickles, bacon, and ground beef. The bistro also serves fried cheese curds in three flavors and other “Farmer Favs,” like the Big Fat German Pretzel, fried avocado slices, and smoked gouda cheese bites. If you’re on the go, pick up a take-and-bake pizza and a bottle of wine from the Wine and Spirits shop.
The Cheese Encounter, Thunder Bay
The Cheese Encounter is an independently owned artisanal cheese shop located in Thunder Bay’s Bay and Algoma neighborhood. The shop proudly offers local Canadian artisanal cheeses, as well as the finest of imported accoutrements. The Cheese Encounter strives to offer not only a wide variety of the finest food items, but also to provide a welcoming and educational environment for food lovers.
A comprehensive list of the choices at The Cheese Encounter would be far beyond the scope of this piece, but you’re almost assured to find what you are looking for. Refrigerator cases line the walls and they burst with various offerings with cow, sheep, and goat origins from around the world. Grey Owl, a soft, pasteurized goat’s milk cheese coated in vegetable ash, is produced in Quebec. Piacere, another Canadian cheese, is a creamy water buffalo milk cheese coated in rosemary, summer savory, and chili flakes. Along with these wildly unique cheeses, the shop also carries staples like Keen’s Cheddar, a raw milk cheese made from the Keen cattle in Somerset, England, and mozzarella produced in Woodbridge, Ontario, from fresh cow’s milk or buffalo milk. Truly, The Cheese Encounter has something for any dairy aficionado.
While The Cheese Encounter is clearly a dairy haven, they sell more than just cheese. You can find a host of cured meats like Sarment Droit French Saucisson, a dry pork sausage made in Savoie, France. They also carry Italian Guanciale, an alternative to pancetta, that is sure to enhance the flavor of even the best carbonara. Olives and olive oils, crackers, chocolate, and a variety of other condiments and delicious accoutrements line the shelves at The Cheese Encounter.
Both Burnett Dairy Cooperative in Duluth and The Cheese Encounter in Thunder Bay are dedicated to providing high-quality products that meet the needs of their customers. Whether you’re sourcing ingredients for the finest dinner, or creating the best charcuterie board your friends have ever seen, or you just need a little more dairy in your life, the Burnett Dairy Cheese Store and Bistro and The Cheese Encounter are your tickets to success.
